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| Badshahi Mosque, Lahore |
(This one is not a running blog ... but could've been had my india-pak-marathon-plan worked out :), which was to run from Lahore to Amristar - a flat 26.2 mile course but as they say in Pakistan, "Next time Insha allah!)
A thought
Pakistan has been an enigma to me.
There has been an intense desire to be there!
Not sure if it was stories I heard growing up (my maternal grand father studied at DAV college, Lahore and my paternal grandfather had a little shop in Lahore before he moved to Delhi a little before partition), or was it over dose of Sunny paaji's movies, Kushwant's singh's books, or my past visits to border areas of Punjab, Jammu and Rajasthan (when you could see across the border but couldn't cross) -- I have had dreams of visiting this land for the longest time!
AK is a good friend and he hails from Lahore (well Pindi actually but more on that later). A lunch hasn't gone by when we don't discuss our countries, our poets, politics and a potential visit to each other's country. Well -- the event presented itself when AK invited us to his niece's Nikkah in Lahore in late Dec 2018.
To say I was excited is an understatement. As Borat would say -- it was "much-excite"!
There was a sudden rush to gobble up whatever I information I could find on Pakistan. Books, maps, people, places, movies. Where does one start?
A thought
Pakistan has been an enigma to me.
There has been an intense desire to be there!
Not sure if it was stories I heard growing up (my maternal grand father studied at DAV college, Lahore and my paternal grandfather had a little shop in Lahore before he moved to Delhi a little before partition), or was it over dose of Sunny paaji's movies, Kushwant's singh's books, or my past visits to border areas of Punjab, Jammu and Rajasthan (when you could see across the border but couldn't cross) -- I have had dreams of visiting this land for the longest time!
AK is a good friend and he hails from Lahore (well Pindi actually but more on that later). A lunch hasn't gone by when we don't discuss our countries, our poets, politics and a potential visit to each other's country. Well -- the event presented itself when AK invited us to his niece's Nikkah in Lahore in late Dec 2018.
To say I was excited is an understatement. As Borat would say -- it was "much-excite"!
There was a sudden rush to gobble up whatever I information I could find on Pakistan. Books, maps, people, places, movies. Where does one start?
Prep work
Lonely planet stopped publishing Pakistan's edition so my best bet was to find an old copy at Amazon (1997 edition) and good old youtube. Started reading a few books on Lahore, Islam and got myself up to date on a few good movies on history (Jinnah, Viceroy's house to name a few). Hours got spent on google maps charting out my course for a potential Amritsar to Lahore run (which as I found later, would need more planning and perhaps a trip without kids to be able to manage) but by the time I was done, I perhaps knew my way around lahore already! Not sure if it was an anxiety or what - just wanted to be sure I knew where I was going to be.
Visa
Next step was Visa process. A quick visit to pak consulate website, figure out forms, fees, prepare the deck, mail it and wait for verdict.
Piece of cake, right? Wrong!
First the good news. Having a USA passport helps -- Instead of multiple forms that Indian residents must fill, I only needed to fill one (the only place indian passport helps is the visa fee, a 5$ vs 192$ per person).
Instead of approval, got a query to provide further info (attested/signed copy from Pakistan host, as just wedding card wasn't enough as invitation), done.....waiting....another query -- sorry, you will have to come in person for interview....a little inconvenience but okay I told the lady from embassy, let me book my flight to LA...no Sir, we would like your entire family to come for interview...no worries, que in lemon/lemonades quote...and we made a plan to spend a few days in LA and trip to island of Catalina... and get the Visa.
We packed ourselves for a 3 day LA tour and headed south.
LA embassy was a pleasant surprise. People in line, all Pakistani's spoke with courtesy, were curious as soon as they heard that we hail from India (infact one lady who heard that we are planning to go to Islamabad but don't have a host from the city, offered to write a sponsorship letter on the spot! - that was sweet). The visa, my research had told me, was per city (if you were from India background).
We were #4 in line, gave our passports at the counters and were asked to wait. 1/2 hour later, we were asked to come via side door to meet the DG counselor. First question - "आपको पाकिस्तान जाने की क्या पड़ी है" (why are you hell bent on going to Pakistan?).
Well -- good morning to you too :)
That question set me back a little but I gathered myself and responded - "because it's a beautiful country and we have been meaning to go there since ages". After the customary where you are from, dad's info etc. etc., we were asked to go back to our seats and wait. Fingers crossed, when we were called next, we were told we had the visa.
I quickly opened the passport, which had the visa stamp from Islamic republic of Pakistan.
Allowed for visit to Lahore only.
Lahore only?
What?
Went back to the counter and talked about our plans to visit Taxila, Rawalpindi, Islamabad and Peshawar (last one purely to see Raj kapoor and Dilip kumar's birth place). Another - please-wait-while-I-go-back-and-check-with-us-later moment from staff, we had an updated visa with Islamabad added (guess Peshawar has to wait for next time).
This was finally happening! All the trouble to get papers, notary work, drive to LA -- was all worth it.
As it was official now, I mentioned this to a few friends, co workers and running teams I coach. Questions ("why pakistan") to concerns (its bad, what if you get stuck), to suggestions (register yourself with foreign office) started pouring in.
We packed ourselves for a 3 day LA tour and headed south.
LA embassy was a pleasant surprise. People in line, all Pakistani's spoke with courtesy, were curious as soon as they heard that we hail from India (infact one lady who heard that we are planning to go to Islamabad but don't have a host from the city, offered to write a sponsorship letter on the spot! - that was sweet). The visa, my research had told me, was per city (if you were from India background).
We were #4 in line, gave our passports at the counters and were asked to wait. 1/2 hour later, we were asked to come via side door to meet the DG counselor. First question - "आपको पाकिस्तान जाने की क्या पड़ी है" (why are you hell bent on going to Pakistan?).
Well -- good morning to you too :)
That question set me back a little but I gathered myself and responded - "because it's a beautiful country and we have been meaning to go there since ages". After the customary where you are from, dad's info etc. etc., we were asked to go back to our seats and wait. Fingers crossed, when we were called next, we were told we had the visa.
I quickly opened the passport, which had the visa stamp from Islamic republic of Pakistan.
Allowed for visit to Lahore only.
Lahore only?
What?
Went back to the counter and talked about our plans to visit Taxila, Rawalpindi, Islamabad and Peshawar (last one purely to see Raj kapoor and Dilip kumar's birth place). Another - please-wait-while-I-go-back-and-check-with-us-later moment from staff, we had an updated visa with Islamabad added (guess Peshawar has to wait for next time).
This was finally happening! All the trouble to get papers, notary work, drive to LA -- was all worth it.
As it was official now, I mentioned this to a few friends, co workers and running teams I coach. Questions ("why pakistan") to concerns (its bad, what if you get stuck), to suggestions (register yourself with foreign office) started pouring in.
My running team sounded very excited on the prospect of a two country marathon, cross border marathon.Border crossing
| On way to India/Pakisan Border (those two flags are border) |
Decided to get in/out of india and get into Pakistan on foot via Wagah border. Reason was purely the fact that there were no direct flights (there used to be one PIA flight between Delhi/Lahore on Tue/Thu but that doesn't show up on any travel sites and other options like fly via colombo, dubai are 15 hours from Delhi).
Glad we did that. I remember crossing Peru/Bolivia border on foot eons ago, a simple walk across a line, but this, this was something else - a true spectacle. I highly highly recommend that route!
The day finally arrived when we were to take a flight to Amritsar, drive to Border and cross over. A late flight from Delhi (Fog), to late baggage arrival to late pre paid taxi to border, to extra time spent at immigration meant that we only had 15 minutes to cross the border (as they stop transfers at 4pm India time to start the flag ceremony).
I had run this movie in my mind multiple times, but nothing could've prepared me for what I saw as we got into the final 50 feet of the border. The pre ceremonies were in full swing which meant little kids running with giant indian flags, 100,000 watt speakers singing patriotic songs, and huge shouts of Vande matram, bharat mata ki jai, Hindustan Zindabaad!.
Picture the front runner in a marathon, just entering the stadium for the last lap and being greeted by thunderous shouts thousands of people!
Except, we got to experience that in slow motion, just walking, with porters carrying our luggage in front (you don't have to have porters, but they don't leave you a choice, extremely pushy). I found the porters to be really nice and we paid good tips but it seems it has become a default and porters force everyone now for those tips to let you cross over (for a 100 meter walk)).
Multiple passport checks later, we were at the gate and the 2 feet away was the "line".
Crossing the line sent a rush of emotions and like getting quenched of a long lost thirst.
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| Welcome to Pakistan! |
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| On the pakistani side! |
The road to Lahore was by a canal (without water, perhaps for cleanup purposes). First 15 odd kms were through villages post which the city started. What strikes you initially, especially coming from India, the similarities (the vehicals, bikes, the way people drive, the zig zagging by bike people to get in front - its almost as everybody from each country gets a manual in driving to drive the shortest path).
Walled City, Lahore
Lahore is amazing! (checkout this link for a brief history of the place)
While there are some similarities with Delhi or Amristar, largely it has a unique personality of its own. Frozen in time, there are areas which were the same 50 years ago and perhaps will be the same 50 years from now.
Things that stuck me first few days were:
- the way most people dress (men in Salwar Kameeze, which I will find myself buying 3 pairs in next 9 days),
- hundreds of posters/statues of Quaid-e-azam (Md Jinnah),
- the Pakistani Flag everywhere,
- most TV screens showing cricket matches (whether it was hotel, restaurants or our host's house, every TV screen had pakistan cricket team playing live cricket or highlights of old games),
- the pricing on things (extremely cheap!),
- the soft spoken tone in which people talk,
- the water (or lack of) in rivers
- lane driving at mall road
- lack of vegetarian food
- and the circling birds in the air - everywhere I went, be it Pindi, Islamabad, Taxila, Lahore - these were the constants)
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| Aloo Tikki (Puddings) |
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| Kava |
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| Kabuli Wala in old city |
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| A Rabri and GajarHalwa Shop (3rd gen) in old city |
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| Sufi singer singing in Gurdwara |
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| Walled City Auto Rikshaws |
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| Shoe seller outside Shahi Qila |
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| Minar-e-pakistan |
No lahore trip can be complete without a tour of Walled city. As the saying goes -- "Lahore vich teraah darwaze teh ek mori" (lahore has 13 gates and 1 hole to get into). Over the course of our trip, we practically went through all those gates. Within the walled city, our first stop was Gurdwara Dera Sahib Shaheedi Asthan Sri Guru Arjun Dev Jee. Legend is that this is the place where Guru Arjun Dev Jee (Sikhism's 5th Guru, who wrote Guru Granth Sahib) gave up his body to river ravi. Inside the gurdwara, an old sufi singer was singing songs (who changed his song to "Ko bole Ram Ram, koi Khudaye" song as soon as he saw us - as we learnt later, that singer is direct lineage of Bhai Mardana, a companion of Guru Nanak Dev Jee). I just went 500 years of history in those 5 lines, could be a little much to absorb all this history-richness so if you are planning a visit to walled city, relax and savor the moment.
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| Shahi Kila, Badshai Mosque and Gurdwara |
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| Inside Wazir Khan Mosque |
The afternoon and evening belonged to our Pakistani hosts who live south of the city. One of the things we learnt about Lahori's before embarking on the trip was to never refuse food as that's a way for them to show their love! And we had no intention of doing that :-)
What awaited us at our host's house was a sumptuous feast of sweets, lahori fish, chicken, hundred other things and kulfi falooda. Like a good wine, after you have had a few bites of lahori fish, the rest just keeps going into your tummy.
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| Food street Heera Mandi |
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| Views from Cuckoo Den's restaurant |
Let the festivities begin
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| Wazir Khan Mosque |
The next four days had us doing day trips to old city, Wazir Khan Mosque, Anarkali market and evenings were reserved for wedding festivities (mehndi, sangeet). GenX from both bride and groom side had prepared dance numbers they had been practicing for months which made evening events quite a delight with serenades of medleys and folks dancing to those mixes of old Punjabi folks songs and latest Bollywood numbers.
Being an outsider, one thing that strikes you immediately is the no-alcohol aspect of festivities.
People seem high on life!
Folks arrive, music happens, dances happen, conversations go on and then suddenly from a corner comes the announcement -- "khaana khul gaya hai" (food is open)! and every body stops what they are up to and head to food.
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| Lahore ke Parindey |
Ofcourse, I was noting down those differences not avoiding them :-) And those 4 days perhaps added 10 lbs to my tummy!
Rawalpindi, Islamabad, Taxila
We had chosen to take a break from lahore for a few days and head down to Rawalpindi, Islamabad and Taxila. AK told us that would make us miss the Qwwali night. What?? There was a qwwali night as well? Anyway, too late to change plans. We surely missed this event.
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| Karakoram highway between Lahore and Islamabad |
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| Black Pearl, Pirates? No, just a regular truck on Taxila Hwy |
While trip to outskirts of Rawalpindi was traffic free, it took about 90 odd minutes to make it into Rawalpindi and get to hotel. Same circling birds of Lahore were here as well.
I had booked Pearle continental for our stay here as well but got a surprise when checkin lady mentioned that we can't stay there.
What?
Well - surprises never stop!
What is it this time?
Apparently, Rawalpindi is a major army area restricted by our visa (which restricts cantonment areas entry). I was quite unaware of the cantonment part but the hotel manager looked at our family and duration of stay and was kind enough to allow the stay (phew!).
Next few days plan was a trip to Taxila and if time permitted a visit to Al Faisal mosque, Islamabad.
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| Sarafa Bazaar, Rawalpindi |
Taxila has the capacity to transport you into the past. A sort of time travel that takes you back about 3000 years, through vibrant sprawling cities, bazaars, kingdoms, conquerors and conquered. Its location made sure that this was the first stop for conquerors coming from east asia, towards their journey to india. The kindgom exchanged many hands, each ruler leaving his stamp. One can spend days in the museum checking out artifacts that date as back as 5 BC. Buddha's tooth is one of the prized possessions. Due to country's situation, what used to be buses of tourists (mostly buddist) has given to empty parking lot (there were roughly10 people total in the museum). The place was excavated in early 1900s for about 10 years and locals believed there is
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| Taxila locals trying to sell old coins from Alexander's time (fake!) |
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| Budda from Taxila ruins |
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| Al Faisal Mosque, Islamabad |
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| Raja Bazaar, Rawalpindi |
Trip back to Lahore was uneventful (though as I have found post trip, there were many places of Hindu mythology relevance that we could've visited on the way).
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| Anarkali Street food |
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| Baag-e-jinaah |
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| Lahore Gymkhana Club |
It was raining a bit the day we were getting back. The feeling of entering India felt like coming home and next few hours went into queuing up and then watching the grand border ceremony spectacle again from India side.
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| Murree Beer, first and only drink in Pakistan at Avari Hotel |
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| Haidar, the Paanwala, who won't take money once he got to know we are from india. |